Tools…Your Choice, Not Your Dog’s
If you have ever hired a professional to “fix” something in your home, you expect them to have the right tool to get the job done quickly and correctly. Plumbers and electricians have tools, but they likely do not use the same ones to get the job done. If you hired a carpenter to remodel a room you would expect them to have a hammer, a level, and the appropriate saw. What if they showed up with a bulldozer and a blow torch? Would you question why they need them?
Each professional has tools that they feel comfortable using. In dog training, an unregulated industry, the tools available vary greatly. It is important for all dog owners to know what a trainer uses, why they use them, and what impact it will have on a dog's behavior, both in the short term and long term. There is much debate about the use of tools that are “aversive.” This debate, and the passion it sparks, comes from the many cases of abuse at the hands of “trainers.” The argument “if used correctly” is often brought up as a way to validate the use of tools that may be considered aversive.
What is Aversive?
The term aversive has many definitions, including:
“…tending to avoid or causing avoidance of a noxious or punishing stimulus” - Merriam-Webster.com
“making someone feel a strong dislike for something” - Dictionary.Cambridge.org
“…unpleasant stimuli that induce changes in behavior via negative reinforcement or positive punishment.” - Wikipedia.com
“Causing avoidance of a thing, situation, or behavior by using an unpleasant or punishing stimulus” - FreeDictionary.com
Who determines what is aversive? The learner, in this case, the dog. What one dog considers “unpleasant” another dog may simply “tolerate.”
I will admit, I used some aversive tools in my past. When I started training dogs some 35 years ago, choke chains and collar corrections were the way everyone trained. These are no longer something I use, except when highly aroused dogs exhibit leash biting and I employ a choke chain as an unpleasant connection to bite between the leash and their collar. You can read more about this in Pat Miller’s article “How to Survive Your Dog’s Arousal Biting” in the Whole Dog Journal. Behavioral science has changed the way I train dogs and the tools I use. Let’s look at what options are available.
Tools of the Trade
In dog training, there are a variety of tools that can be used to change or instill behavior. Let’s look at each of them, how they are used, and then assess whether they are right for your dog, and you. We will rate them by Highly Aversive/Painful/Scary, (HA) Somewhat Aversive/Unpleasant (SA), Non-Aversive/Friendly (NA).
Harnesses (SA) - There are a variety of harnesses available and not all are created equal. Some require the dog “steps into” it, with a buckle over the shoulder blades. Most require going over the head. To many dogs, both of these can be “unpleasant” as the owner looms over the dog to safely engage the buckles, or corners the dog and moves the harness over the dog’s head. Harnesses also come with “no-pull” options that either restrict movement of the shoulders, pull to dog off balance, or work by physically manipulating the dog’s forward motion. Harnesses do take the pressure off of the dog’s neck and trachea when a dog pulls, which is a positive health benefit.
Collars - When looking at collars we need to break them down into the following categories based on use.
Buckle Collars (NA) Buckle collars are necessary for securing identification tags. GPS and Wi-Fi enabled collars help us keep track of our dogs when they are off leash. I’m going to lump martingale collars into this category as they are a key tool for dogs who can easily slip out of a regular collar.
Training Collars (HA/SA) Training Collars include Prong/Pinch Collars and Choke Chains. These tools work to change behavior by creating an unpleasant, sometimes painful stimulus when pressure is applied. The pressure can come from “corrections” given by the person holding the leash, or by the dog if he pulls forward.
Electronic/Vibration Collars (HA/SA) - These collars are sometimes referred to as “E Collars,” “Remote Collars” or “Stimulation” collars. Similar to training collars these tools change behavior by applying shock or vibration at the hands of the person holding the remote, or if the dog barks or approaches an electronic fence or disc. Some dogs find beep tones or vibration highly aversive, while others may only find the shock stimuli aversive.
GPS Collars (NA) GPS collars help keep track of dogs that are off leash. These can be used in individual situations, such as hunting or hiking, or can be used daily for the dog that may like to “walk about” if outside.
Collars
Prong and Electronic collars use pain to suppress behavior.
Leashes - Leashes should be viewed as a “seat belt,” not a “steering wheel.” The leash connects the dog and the owner. Leashes come in a variety of lengths, material, and colors. Retractable leashes can give the dog freedom to move at a distance.
Slip Leads - (SA) Slip leads have become more popular of late. This leash has a loop on one end that can be tightened, either by the dog pulling or by the owner applying pressure. Slip leads can be beneficial if a dog is an escape risk, but can be damaging if the dog pulls.
Head Collars - (HA/SA) Head collars work on the same principle as a halter for a horse. A nose loop applies pressure to the top of the nose and the head collar is fitted tight behind the ears. Many dogs find these collars highly aversive, though they can be useful for some situations. Conditioning a dog to wearing a head halter prior to its use can help them form a more positive association.
Muzzles - (HA/SA) Muzzles are used as a safety precaution for dogs that may bite and as a way to minimize eating inappropriate objects. A dog wearing a muzzle does not signal that the dog is dangerous! Muzzles can be highly aversive, especially when used in emotionally charged situations, such as veterinary appointments, or when the dog is not conditioned to wearing one. Cloth muzzles may obstruct the dog’s ability to pant, which can lead to panic.
Tools for Safety
Head collars and muzzles, though potentially aversive, can be necessary for safety.
Corrective Devices - (SA/HA) - The word corrective suggests how these training tools work. Corrective devices can be air horns, ultrasonic devices, electronic mats, cans with coins inside, spray bottles, or any other device that is applied to stop an unwanted behavior. Some dogs find them aversive only for a short time, rendering them useless over time, while others find them so aversive that just the sight of them can create a response.
Platforms - (NA) Platforms are a tool used to help dogs learn where to station. “Stationing” behavior can be helpful for teaching dogs where to go when someone is at the door, for helping teach a dog to stay, and to help dogs who have difficulty in public. Platforms are one form of stationing behavior, and other objects such as mats, beds, or small rugs may act as a station.
Clicker/Marker - (NA) Markers are sounds or words used to signal to a dog that they have earned a reward or reinforcement. A word, such as YES, can be used to tell the dog that their behavior is correct. Other sounds, such as a clicker, are non-emotional markers that can be used. When paired with a rewards or reinforcement the marker word or sound begin to take on the same value as the rewards. Some dogs, if sound sensitive, may find a traditional clicker sound slightly aversive. This can be overcome by using conditioning the dog to a quieter version, such as a ball point pen.
Food/Toys - (NA) Every dog needs to eat to survive but some dogs prefer toys to treats. Toys and treats can be a valuable tool in dog training. When used as a reward, they can be motivating to the dog. When used as a bribe, however, they can be demotivating to the owner.
Creating My “Toolbox” - My training toolbox has changed over the years, as has the science behind behavior and working with dogs. Gone are the days of using collars that punish, corrections that intimidate, and dogs that work simply because they are afraid of what the outcome will be . I prefer a dog that is confident enough to make a mistake, than a dog that is afraid to make one.
I routinely use leather leashes, well fitted harnesses for dogs that pull, and buckle collars for those that don’t. My toolbox also includes marker words and sounds, treats, toys, and physical play, all as rewards for the right behavior(s). I recommend and use basket muzzles for dogs where safety of the dog or others is an issue. I recommend head collars in a small number of my students, those who may need to be able to temporarily close the dog’s mouth or where there is a physical disability or size difference.
I do not use, nor recommend, the use of corrective collars, corrective devices, or training that does not allow the dog to learn without the fear of what happens if they are wrong. The dog’s emotional state should ALWAYS be a part of the process, and training should be something you do WITH your dog, not TO your dog.
I often ask students who use older methods or tools that are aversive, what happens if you take that away? Will the dog’s behavior remain the same? Will you have the same control? Does the dog stay with you and work willingly? Another question I ask is how long the tool needs to be used? If the answer is “always” to get the behavior, I would think twice about using it. Even with food rewards, I can transition away from them in many cases. But because a dog NEEDS to eat I can always use them as a training tool. A dog does not organically NEED a prong collar, nor would they ask for one if there is a less painful, pleasant option.
Management as a Tool - Management is preventing a dog from continuing to perform behaviors we would like to change. Some examples of management are:
Leashes or baby gates to prevent jumping on people
Training tethers to prevent counter surfing
Confinement to prevent destructive chewing or inappropriate elimination
Without using confinement it can be difficult to effectively change behavior. Some dogs may find management unpleasant, even mildly aversive, if we do not use it wisely!
The Message - Your dog has no voice in the type of tools you use. Ultimately it is up to you to decide what you want for your dog. You are your dog’s advocate. Never let anyone tell you “It doesn’t hurt” or “It is just a …” as you are not the one who is the recipient of its application!
If your goal is to create a positive learning experience for your dog, please consider wisely the tools you use.
